Cactus Blog

Epiphyllums are popular wherever they can be found. I would suggest, humbly, that it is because of the amazing flowers.

Cuttings from the plants are easily rooted. From spring until fall, the plants can grow outdoors in hanging baskets attached to tree branches, providing filtered light. The baskets can be lined with coconut fiber and filled with cactus soil, both to ensure excellent drainage….

When temperatures drop, baskets need to be moved to a protected location that has bright natural light.

I don’t recommend that you click through to the article that this lovely photo comes from. I have safely excerpted as much as you need to know about epi’s. Whatever you do, don’t read the part about how they fertilize. Noooo!!!!! Oh, the humanity.

We use a well balanced slow-release cactus fertilizer, and add extra fish bone meal to encourage blooming. If you want to use a liquid fertilizer, only use a low-strength organic product for strong healthy growth.

We water them once a week, and plant them in our jungle cactus/orchid mix soil which is very similar to a cactus soil, but has chunks of coconut husk chips in it, and extra slow-release organic fertilizers.

Definitely use a hanging basket, coir-lined if possible. And don’t forget to share your cuttings with your friends.

Everybody wants to know how to get your christmas cactus to bloom at christmas. Well, let me tell you. Now is the time to start your preparations.

Now is the time to start giving your christmas cactus some bloom food every time you water and begin the process of bringing more darkness to your plant. We use 100% fish bone meal for our plants. You can use a liquid if you prefer. Not too strong, though, since you are going to be feeding it every watering for the next 3 months.

I go over all the details here.

But beware, incorrect darkness can result in blooms in spring. Oh noes!

Pretty.

…Dallas Style.

Easy, step by step instructions, including:

1. Pick out your paddles…

2. With your knife, remove the spines…

3. Boiling water…

4. Drain excess water…

5. Grill the nopales.

Easy enough! And if you click through the link you can see all the rest of the information that goes with that list.

Here, have a picture.

Executive chef Amador Mora and Sarah Eveans
KYLE KEARBEY/Staff

Follow this link only if you are prepared to be shocked by all the information about gasterias that you could ever need. Unless you are a gasteria biologist in which case it’s probably not that much information at all. In fact, really it’s not that much information at all. I might have been exaggerating a bit, for effect. But it is some good information nonetheless, about gasterias. I personally don’t really like gasterias.

I love this video!

That looks so easy! I could do that.

This calls for planting succulents.

What can you grow in a container on your overheated west-facing balcony or patio? The answer is to plant a “hot pot” full of sun-loving succulents — plants that carry their water supply around with them in their leaves and can take all the heat you can give them.

I’ll annotate as we read together from the Vancouver Sun.

To create the tender hot pot, first place gravel or terra cotta shards in the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage.

Just make sure you don’t block the hole. In fact, cover the hole with mesh, and place a fast-draining soil all the way to the bottom.

Fill the upright 18-inch pot with a quality container soil mix.

Make that a quality cactus and succulent soil mix. Regular container soils will rot the plants.

Next, place your centrepiece — the large, Aeonium ‘Schwarzkopf’. This will stand about 35 to 45 cm high in the pot.

We always start with the big plant, although we often plant it off-center for effect.

Moisten the soil before taking the three large “collector’s echeveria” — colours range from warm pinks to cool blues — and placing them equidistant apart around the aeonium. The roots can be pressed into the moistened soil without much difficulty, but be careful not to damage the leaves or interfere too much with the roots.

We recommend planting into dry soil, and not moistening anything for another week, since succulents have tender rot-prone roots. In other words, rather than press the roots into wet soil try digging a hole into dry soil.

Finish off your container by planting the smaller, filler sedums in between the echeveria.

I approve of surrounding echeveria with smaller sedums.

This container can be placed in full-sun, but will need to be moved into a frost-free room in winter.

So true for those poor unfortunate freeze-loving Canadians.

Instructions are available on the Cut Out and Keep blog. Hat and suave mustache cost extra.

Learn how to draw a desert landscape with How Stuff Works.

You too can learn to draw this:

And how do you do that?

In this section, we’ll show you how to draw this desert cacti landscape. You can draw it freehand while looking at your computer monitor, or you can print out this page to get a closer look at each step.

Here, we’ll show you an illustration of each step and then give you a description of how to draw it. Follow the red lines in each illustration to learn…

OK, that is not what I want to learn how to draw. I would prefer to learn how to draw this Zombie Cactus, Pepito, from kitsunekei1.

Alas, there are no instructions.

Cactus in the desert can have wide spreading shallow roots. But what about in wetter areas like here, this winter?

Cactus Museum has this to say.

Roots: Cactus roots help to gather and preserve water in several ways. In some cacti, shallow, extensive root systems spread laterally away from the plant (e.g. some prickly pear roots spread 10 to 15 feet away). In brief showers which only wet a few inches of soil, the shallow roots help the plant maximize water intake from a large area.

Cactus roots also change characteristics as the water supply fluctuates. After a rainfall, existing dehydrated roots become more water conductive and new rain roots are formed to help soak up water. In times of drought, the rain roots shrivel and fall off and the existing roots dehydrate. The shrinkage of the existing roots creates an air gap that helps to prevent water in the roots from escaping back to the soil. A corky layer on the roots also helps to prevent water loss.

Now that may be true in the desert, but we have found in a densely planted garden where there is water down in the (fast-draining) soil (that you’ve added or amended in your garden), the roots can be deeper. Competition between adjacent plants will cause roots to try deeper than wider, and when they find water down there, which they won’t in the desert but they will in your garden, they’ll want to stay down there.

In fact, we notice that they will go down until they hit the water table in winter, and then they’ll rot off back up to the drier parts of the soil, which also tends to match up with the depth to which you amended your soil to make it faster draining.

This will then cause them to spend the early part of spring growing new roots before they start growing new branches. Every year this cycle repeats, and if you haven’t amended your soil deep enough, then eventually the cactus will fail.

The Lesson: make sure you have amended your soil to be fast draining deep enough that the roots will have plenty of depth to establish and survive the winters. For larger cactus, we recommend at least 2 feet of depth, and don’t crowd them too close to each other either. Give the roots room to grow above the winter water table.

I share with you this video.

DoitYourself.com has instructions in growing barrel cactus from seed. It seems very complicated. And you need lot’s of tools. I wonder if we do all of this when we grow them from seed?

Grow a Barrel Cactus from a Seed

Tools and Materials Needed:
(long list deleted in this excerpt. click through for full info.)

Step 1 – Collect Seeds
Step 2 – Remove the Seeds from the Pods
Step 3 – Soak the Seeds
Step 4 – Prepare the Potting Soil
Step 5 – Set the Seeds
Step 6 – Distribute the Seeds
Step 7 – Wait for Germination
Step 8 – Transfer to Pots
Step 9 – Final Positioning

Wow, that’s a lot to keep track of. I wonder how the plants do all that themselves in the wild?

Here’s a picture of a barrel cactus seed pods.

You can see the “seed pod,” also known as the fruit, in the back to the left behind the bloom. I was looking through all my ferocactus photos, and that’s the only one I can find with a fruit in the shot. I normally focus on the flowers or the spines.

The fruit from the Cereus peruvianus is called a Cactus Apple, and the St. Petersburg Times has a reader who knows how best to eat them.

Paul Zmoda has been growing the (Peruvian apple) cactus at his research facility, Flatwoods Fruit Farm in Riverview. He says that aside from eating the pulp fresh, he recommends serving frozen thin slices sprinkled with sugar and lime juice. The pink peel can also be candied. Paul thinks that the rind might even make good sweet and sour pickles similar to watermelon pickles.

Our plants don’t fruit, since they need to be pollinated by bats and we don’t have bats at the nursery.

You can buy seeds from Trade Winds Fruit, and see what they have to offer in all kinds of tropical fruits, even though this is not a tropical fruit.

They also sell Saguaro seeds.

What does it take to grow lithops? Let’s see what the Deseret News out of Utah has to say.

My friend Clark Moorten, a desert-garden authority, recommends that I keep a misting bottle near the lithops. “If you just can’t stand it and must water them, wait a week, then spray them with the mister,” he says.

Misting is important because much of southern Africa, from the east coast of Natal to the pointed Cape Horn, experiences a long dry season. In the brutally dry west coast of the Atlantic, the dry season is even longer. However, heavy coastal fogs travel inland, often at night, to lay down a thick layer of dew. Plants here have evolved to utilize this airborne moisture during a long drought. It explains why regular watering regimes during a dry season are a killer.

Well that’s what I tell everyone around here: Mist! Don’t water! I suppose that means if you’re growing your lithops outdoors in the Bay Area, close to the coastal fog belt, then you don’t even have to mist them at all. Just be sure to have them under cover during the winter rains.

Identifying lithops species can be very difficult, what with the hundreds of subspecies. You generally have to wait for the plant to flower, and then you can try to match the leaf markings and the flower color to pictures in a book. Good luck with that, I always say. We have identified about half the species we carry. Sometimes we leave off the subspecies name, just because the names can get too long for our labels.

We also grow them very small, which is how they grow in nature – basically invisible among rocks of the same colors. Some people like to grow them bigger, which means more water, but then they’re very prone to rotting out quickly. So we do not do that.

Here’s a small one that hides well in our lava mulch.

Lithops aucampiae ssp. koelemani

And here’s one that doesn’t hide well in our red lava mulch. Maybe we should find some green rock.

Lithops lesliei ssp. lesliei v. albinica

And here’s my favorite lithops bloom photo. It’s the one I use for greeting cards.

Lithops schwantesii

It’s probably a ssp. schwantesii, but that seems excessive.

Sometimes we find little bite marks out of them – the mice like them it turns out. So then we lay out little no-kill mouse traps, and check back every day for live mice that we release down the street. If you forget to check a no-kill trap for a day, it becomes a kill-trap.

I don’t give a lot of gardening advice on this blog, unless someone asks a question directly. But here you go.

If you like to take cuttings of your plants and propagate new ones then you should know that we’re taking our final cactus cuts of the year so they’ll be rooted before winter – any later than this and they’ll rot away to nothing.

Phew, that was useful.

Maybe I should make a video.

From Austin (TX), home of the Austin Jaspers semi-pro basketball team in the Texas Grass League, comes a nice concise set of instructions for growing cactus from seed.

I wonder if Hap will agree with their instructions?

Ever wonder how to prepare cactus fruit? I found this article from the San Francisco Chronicle’s archives, 5 years ago.

Tasty cactus pears keep fans a-prickle

It’s a good idea to process the fruit outdoors. Slit the top across but not completely off. Cut parallel incisions into the skin lengthwise, taking care not to cut into the flesh, then pry apart the skin and reach fingers in to pull out the fruit. Photo, 2001, by Catherine Yoshii

That picture is the key to the whole operation – it really explains it all. Now if they would just do an article about mangos.

The Examiner, whatever that is, has a nice article about lowering your water usage. This is a nice complement to this morning’s article about drought tolerant plants.

Cactus and succulent gardens, when thoughtfully designed with paths, boulders, rocks, even sculptures, can become a maze of fascinating texture and color, created in diverse scenes. California natives can be selected to be as ornamental as any other flowering plant….

So, now’s the time to do a little research into drought tolerant landscaping. Don’t be limited by preconceived ideas.

I always say read 2 articles before making all your decisions. Now you have the 2 articles at your fingertips.

From Santa Rosa comes instruction in not watering your garden.

In light of the water crisis, the Sonoma County Master Gardeners have put their heads together to compile a list of super-drought-tolerant plants….

These tend to be natives or plants that originated in Mediterranean climates not unlike California that experience only minimal rainfall in summer…

Among favorites… are manzanitas, of which there are varieties not only native to California but native to Sonoma County….

Another plant that will take water neglect is Dudleya, a native succulent, similar to echeveria.

They put together a good list of locally climate-appropriate plants. Go check it out.

Have you got any tips for potting a (large) E.Trigona? I just can’t get my head round how to do it.

How can you tell that a plant is underpotted? What should I look for?
Thanks,
Mike

Mike,
We generally like to see as much plant mass above the soil line as potential root mass below.

Repotting euphorbias is difficult. They have a caustic white sap (latex) that is very dangerous, and with all those branches banging against each other when you repot, the likelihood of getting it on you is high. So what we do is wear a lot of protective clothing, including goggles and gloves, and pack between the branches with bunched up newspaper to keep the branches from scarring each other.

Then you use a tool to separate the roots from the sides of the pot. Lay the whole thing flat on a tarp on the ground. With 2 to 3 people, gently ease the plant out of the pot. Generally you don’t want to disturb the roots too much for succulents, but if it is completely pot bound, then a small amount of root massage to redirect the root tips is recommended.

Place the plant into the new larger pot (we recommend terra cotta) with fresh fast-draining cactus soil so that the top of the soil line stays in the same place. Fill around with more soil, and you’re done. Don’t water for 2 weeks to let the roots heal, and the plant should begin to thrive again.

Good luck,
Peter

This was a follow-up to a previous question about an underpotted plant.