Hi Cactus Jungle crew, I just noticed a dry scabby lesion on a Copiapoa hypogaea of mine (see attached photo). I’ve sprayed it down with neem oil, but are there any additional steps I should take?
If the infection has scarred to “firm and crusty” the Neem should be enough to deal with it. If it is still moist and gooey it might help to clean it with 3% Hydrogen peroxide a few days apart and then retreat with Neem. The peroxide will help seal the damaged tissue as well as kill off the infection. Take care,
Hi Hap, That Eulophia I bought last week is growing great, the new shoots are almost three inches and going fast. I forgot to ask when it was last fed and when I should give it another feeding. Very happy with this one, was on the wish list for a while. Thank you. Brendan
The Eulophia petersii was fed late spring and could get another low strength dose any time now. Either orchid or cacti food is appropriate, just stay away from over-strength chemical types and make sure it is well balanced. Eulophia seems to do best when treated a bit more like a cactus than an orchid, but it does enjoy having some regular food like an orchid. Just make sure it dries out between waterings.
I bought a couple of these a short while ago. They are not flowering and look unhappy to me, pleas advise.
Your Bulbine frutescens looks like it recently was in bloom – I can see a couple recently finished blooms on the bloom stalk in back. But the real issue is why isn’t it blooming up a storm like they often do. Sometimes they do rest between bloom periods. And it looks like it’s not getting a lot of sun. In fact, the plant is looking very full in the photo, so I think in this shadier corner it’s decided to produce new leaves rather than blooms. I would get it out into more sun. I also recommend repotting it into the ground or a bigger pot, with fresh cactus soil and lots of organic nutrients.
We bought this plant from you about 1.5 years ago. It has, up to now, been doing great. Last August we moved to a warmer climate (90-100 degree days in summer). I increase watering to once a week when the temperature goes up. In Spring and Fall I water apx. every 10 days, and in winter every 3 weeks.
Our plant thrived last fall, winter and early spring and there was a lot of new growth. About a month ago I noticed that some of the leaves were turning yellow, withering, and dropping off. Initially I thought I needed to water more and made sure I was on the 1x a week schedule. This hasn’t helped and the problems continuing. Please help with any advice! I’m worried about the plant, it’s dropping more and more leaves.
I’ve attached some photos- I hope they help.
The plant has scale and possibly mealy bugs, but it’s hard to tell from the photos. It sounds like you’re watering the right amount, but you may want to check to make sure the soil is dry between waterings, and then water.
I would recommend fertilizing and spraying for the pests. We use neem oil for scale and mealy bugs, and we mix our own nutrients for cactus that we call “Cactus Meal”. I would also suggest using Liquid Kelp right now to help it. If you are still in Northern Cal. you could bring the plant by and we can take a closer look, as well as set you up with neem and the nutrients.
Caroline from Marin sends us 2 photos of her recently planted succulents.
I purchased this cactus from you about a month ago. The leaves are slowly turning black, almost as if they are burning? I live in Marin and it recorded full sun almost all day. Any advice?
Hi. I purchased this aloe plant from you about a month ago and sent a note last week because I was concerned it wasn’t doing well. It seems to be getting worse. Here is a recent picture. Any suggestions what could be wrong?
Hap was gracious enough to provide an extensive answer discussing Mediterranean climate plants in Mediterranean climate summers (That’s us!)
Both of your plants, Aeonium “Sunburst” and the Aloe striata are winter growing plants from Mediterranean Climates just like ours (the Aeonium is from the Canary Islands and the Aloe from South Africa), where all the rain is in the winter months and summers are basically a long drought.
To deal with this they have a summer dormancy period (just like many native Californian plants) where they shut down and nap for the summer and then wake up with the onset of the winter rains and start their active growth stage.
The Aeonium deals with the summer dormancy by letting some of the lower leaves dry out and curl up, to reduce surface area exposed to the sun and the Aloe by doing something similar as well as developing Carotenoids (red and orange pigments) that are more resistant to UV during the long hot summers and increase in the intensity of the sunlight and UV.
Both of the plants you sent photos of look normal for this time of year and should take off with new growth in October and November and really look great by the Holiday season. You can keep them slightly awake and looking “garden fresh” with an occasional drink (weekly to every two weeks), but do not over water in the summer, since it can lead to rot and infections, since while they are dormant they have a harder time fighting off infections.
Robin Cooper gets questions on the British Radio. Bites on your cactus – are they head lice? No! But they’re screaming! And they have families too! The lady finally tells Robin that she’ll pray for the baby beetles before she kills them with insecticides.
Hello! I was wondering if you might be able to identify the attached for me? Someone thought it might be an Echinopsis – but the flowers look wrong for that to me. If you have any suggestions, I’d appreciate it very much!
Again, I really enjoy your blog, and read it all the time.
Thanks very much!
Very nice cactus! And not an Echinopsis at all. It’s a Parodia magnifica. Very distinctive.
Hello guys… I just visited Morro Bay and found this Crested Euphorbia! It’s about 8 to 10” all around. I also bought the little cactus which I believe is a Gymnocalycium (?) and the Pachypoduim lamerei. I put the lil cactus outside and it has two really sweet flowers that are a salmon/pinky red color. I’ve kept the other two inside…should I put them outside, too? I gave them all a drink of water when they got home cuz they looked really dry – I’m thinking they like to be really dry? Do you have any tips of what I should do to keep them alive?
The new plants all look really nice and healthy. I would keep all three inside with lots of sun. It’s hard to judge by the photo, but it doesn’t look like they’re in cactus soil, so of course I recommend transplanting them into cactus soil, and terra cotta pots breathe better than plastic. You can water them all every 1-1/2 to 2 weeks through the summer, and a bit more often if you’re getting over 95F. The little guy is a Gymnocalycium.
I have a very large cactus, about 6 foot from the bottom of the pot to the top of the plant, that I can no longer keep in my house. I am giving to to my sister as she has a bigger house and more favorable conditions for the plant. So sad to give it up. It started off as a 12 inch single shoot cactus. I have had it for about 8 years. My sister lives about 25 minutes away from me. Please help with any suggestions as the best way to transport it to her house.
You have a beautiful specimen Euphorbia abyssinica. That is going to be a challenge to move. I recommend keeping it upright at all times, preferably in a moving van. You will want to wad up newspaper and put it at around the joints where the arms come out, and then wrap the whole thing tightly either with a blanket or newspaper pieces taped to each other, to keep the arms stable during transport. You’ll need at least 3 people, maybe four, making sure one person handles the top of the plant while the others lift the pot.
Please keep in mind that as a Euphorbia this plant has a milky white sap that is caustic at best and some people are allergic to it so it can be poisonous. Wear long sleeves, eye protection and gloves whenever handling this.
Hope your summer is going succulenty! (that’s a good thing, right?) So trying to remember the name of this darling succulent is driving me crazy! Can you help? This one is about a foot and a half wide and has totally awesome orange flowers. Any nod in the right direction will be so appreciated!
Hap, I have a few skinny rhizomes sprouting up and I was wondering if i should remove them to promote the larger ones to sprout which I already have a few growing? Thanks Dan
Sounds like an easy enough question. I wonder what Hap has to say?
But wait! There’s a picture too.
Hap, here is the picture of the small sprouts that I was wondering if i should remove them so it would promote larger new sprout.
Now what will Hap say? I think I can guess…
The small sprouts are all that your newly transplanted plants have the resources to grow right now. Removing them will not encourage more robust shoots, but rather rob them of needed new leaves to feed growing roots and next years bigger shoots. I would leave them and let them leaf fully for this year and then after you get new larger shoots, when the plants are more established, remove any small shoots that are cosmetically unpleasing. But right now any new growth is a good sign and that the plants are settling in to their new home.
Greg asks if we can identify this bamboo and recommend a barrier for it.
I am sorry but there is not enough detail in the photos to identify which species of bamboo it is. Can you take a photo of the whole plant with some sort of size scale, as well as a close up of a branch node of one of the mature canes? As far as barrier (if the scale is what I think it is) the 40mil Rhizome Barrier we stock should be sufficient, it stops running bamboo up to 1-1/2″ in diameter if installed correctly and if you police for “jumpers” (rhizomes that go over the top and then dive back under ground) twice a year. The barrier is 30 inches tall and needs to be buried 28 inches, so there is a two inch lip above the soil. You can surround the grove of bamboo and glue the barrier to its self to make a buried bottomless pot. Or if this is invading bamboo from a neighbor, run a trench along the property-line and install the barrier as a single long line.Of course if it is a large grove it can come around the corner of the barrier with time, so some policing will need to be done at the ends of the barrier.
Joel wants to know if we have a blooming cactus in stock.
I love my neighbor’s cactus plant which flowers often. Do you know the name of it and can you get it for me? I live in Santa Rosa. I would also like to take one of these plants to plant at a friend’s house in Rancho Mirage (near Palm Springs). Would that work?
It is a hybrid, Echinopsis x Echinocereus and we have them in a myriad of bloom colors. They will grow in both locations and the older they get the more flowers you can expect.One of our parent plants had over 400 blooms last year!
Hello, Came across your excellent blog and had a question I could not find an answer for. There are lots of instructions and advice on how to cut portions off of a small cactus, but I have a large cactus that is about to grow through my eight foot ceiling!! I’d like some advice on cutting it in half and repotting the cut portion. I’d really appreciate any help you could give me. My guy looks like this.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Your Cereus is actually fairly easy to cut and re-root. You should be able to cut it at any height you like and then root the top cut as a new clone. The stump will eventually branch, so you should think about cutting somewhere about the height of the chair rail so it has room to grow in to a multi-branched tree form.
We use a pruning saw or a serrated bread knife to cut column cacti, cut at a slight angle with the down slope side towards the wall, so the scar is less evident on the stump. You can wrap the top piece you are cutting off with a towel or carpet scrap to make it easier to hold while cutting.
With the height it looks like it is a two person job, one holding the top and one using the saw. After you have cut off the top piece, spray or paint the cut ends with household hydrogen-peroxide to disinfect and help seal the injury. Re-treat daily for a couple of days to make sure it does not catch a fungus or bacterial infection. The top piece should be stood up against the wall on newspaper and let dry for a week. After a week the cut tissue should be scabbed over (think abrasion scab like after a bike crash…). Generally you don’t need rooting hormones for this type of cacti, but if you have some on hand or have any liquid kelp you could treat the cut end before potting it up to speed up rooting. If you use IBA rooting hormones only use it at low strength. Then pot up in dry cactus soil (fast draining and chunky). Stake as needed. Keep dry and warm for several weeks and then water.
It should grow roots in a month or two. If it starts to look dehydrated during this time frame you can mist the column at night with water. Cacti only open their stoma at night to transpire as it helps them preserve water in the deserts, so misting during the day will not help. You can give the stump a bit of low strength fertilizer to speed up branching and help it through the trauma of loosing it’s head.
i picked up a Sarracenia purpurea while i was there a few weeks ago, and was wondering if you guys had more information about the plant [subspecies/origin]?
thanks for your time!
The plant is from the east coast, and is quite cold hardy even surviving up into Canada. As far as we know, the plants we sell are not a subspecies; we get them from a grower back East.
The pitchers create a digestive enzyme in the base that digests the prey, and the neck of the pitchers are lined with hairs that keep the flies and such from climbing back out. Over time the digestive juices are replaced in older pitchers by bacteria and protozoa that digest the prey and make the nutrients available to the plants.
Here is an awesome botanical illustration from a long long time ago.
Oldest known picture of Sarracenia purpurea, from Clusius’ “Rariorum plantarum historia”, cf. 18, 1601
And in habitat in North Carolina.
1985. Horse Cove bog, near Highlands, Macon County, North Carolina, United States Sturgis McKeever, Georgia Southern University
Spoke 2 u today about this plant. Can u help me save it? It keeps getting smaller and less green. What am I doing wrong?
You have a Haworthia limifolia. We find these grow better indoor with bright light. They do tend to get darker colored in full sun and lose lots of bottom leaves. Water only every 2 weeks and don’t let them sit in water.
Hi, My husband bought a couple of little plants from you 2-3 years ago. The plants live in an office, receiving lots of sunny Sacramento window light. They were brought home this week because they look terrible. I don’t know the names of these two plants. Please let me know what they are called and what can be done to return them to peak health.
Attached photo 2 shows the first plant that is limp, broke away from its roots, and I just pulled off the dead leaves to show you the stem.
Photo 4 is the second plant, leggy and stressed – unhappy: does not look like it is thriving.
Thank you very much for your time and support. Sincerely, Sarah
The first plant is a Haworthia. The dead bottom leaves is not a problem since all succulents lose bottom leaves, but the breaking off from the roots is not good and was probably caused by too much water. You can replant it into fresh new fast-draining cactus soil and it will re-root. Keep it dry until you replant it, and don’t water for a week after.
The 2nd plant is a Crassula and it looks to me like it has not gotten a lot of light, although you say it’s been in a sunny window. Is the window covered, or does it have UV protection on it? In general, when succulents are getting less light they also need less water. It is time to repot the plant into a larger pot with new cactus soil. You can also take tip cuttings and reroot them instead if you prefer. Just cut the tips off each branch, keeping about 4 nodes on each. Let them dry for a few days and then poke them into new cactus soil.
Wondering if u can give me some advice on how to save this plant. We have been putting it in our office with minimal sun light. We sometimes forget to water it for a few weeks. All the stems seem to have dropped and laid horizontally and looks pale. Any advice?
Btw, we bought it from you about 2 years ago. Thanks. Romy
The Stapelia needs more sun and some fertilizer. It’s also time to repot to a bigger pot. If you want to bring it by, we can repot it for you or set you up with the right soil and pot, or fertilizer.
But you should definitely get it a little more sun. Not too much more, but maybe an hour or two of direct morning sun.
Hi, I want to cover our sloped hill with your beautiful succulents. We just had 30 year old juniper cut off at the soil level and hauled away. Would it work to bring in two or three inches of some sort of sandy soil to put on top? What sort would you recommend? Thanks, Heidi ps I LOVE your blog!
Meanwhile, Hap answers her question…
Since it is a hillside, it is perhaps easier to add fast draining soil to each planting hole rather than the entire area. Of course that is dependent on the severity of the slope, if it is not too steep spreading a new layer is easier, though requires more soil. I do not recommend sandy soil, but rather “chunky” where lava and or pumice are the majority of the mix. If you are local, you can use our Cactus and Succulent soil, which we do offer in bulk, if not you can find a local source of 1/4 inch lava or pumice (Don’t use Perlite, it is too light weight and “floats” so you end up with it all on the surface and blowing around like snow… as well as being made in a blast furnace so the carbon load is nuts) and dig it in to your soil at 50/50 ratio. Since there was a juniper there for a long period, your soil is likely very acidic, you might want to test it so you can see if you need to add some oyster shell or lime to bring the pH up.
Thanks for your time and info during our visit on Sunday. I always enjoy my visits to see you guys and the cacti. We drove down 6th and saw the Agave victoria-reginae with its 5’ tall flower spike. Really cool! Mike was surprised that the actual agave was so small and such a perfect round ball. How old is the little one I just bought? I want to know if I’ll live long enough for it to flower, ha!
I am almost done identifying all the cacti and succulents that I’ve amassed over the years – plants I bought and plants my Mom bought at the grocery store and cuttings my friends broke off and said “here”. So, here are two more pics that I can’t figure out.
The “A” pic is of a plant about 4 years old – it started out as a single rosette and then, voila!, oddness. I’ve just been watching it do its thing. It is also small – about 6-8” across and not tall. I thought it was an echeveria (but then, I thought all rosette-type succulents were echevarias, I stand corrected). The pot is only about 2” deep and maybe 4-5” in size.
The second pic “B” is something I’ve had for a few years. A piece broke off and it started fine into another plant. The leaves are about an inch or two long and split like fingers at the ends. No pokey things along the leaf edges so it’s smooth and the trunks are woody looking like it has bark. The whole thing is only about 5-6 inches wide and about 4-5 inches tall.
I am also wondering about feeding my plants the bloom food. Do I only feed plants that do bloom? Does it matter if I give every cacti and succulent some bloom food? Can it hurt them?..probably not. I am going to try the “watering in” method and will do it when I would normally give them a drink of water.
So, again, thanks for your time and info – it is greatly appreciated.
Karen, Your new baby Agave victoria-reginae will probably take 10-15 years in the ground to get full size and then bloom. If you’re lucky, 20 years.
A. is an Echeveria, possibly E. pumila or E. secunda or maybe E. subsessilis. It’s hard to tell because it’s cresting, which is that flat part of the stem, and the fact that many of the rosettes are all wonky-leaved, rather than perfect round.
B. is Rhombophyllum dolabriforme, Elkhorn, a hardy mesemb related to the ice plants.
All cacti will bloom, so you can feed them all bloom food. In general, if you know the time of year they bloom, start feeding them about 2 months before then. Late winter through spring is a good time for cactus. Some plants like the Agaves and some Aeoniums are monocarpic and only bloom once and then die so you may not want to feed them bloom food. Peter
Dear Peter and Hap, One of my Cereus (?) like cacti is being devoured (see attached photo). We’re not sure by what – I suspect slugs but their slime trails aren’t everywhere. Neither Steve nor I have seen the perps. I did find lots of pellet-y critter poo in the tray under the pot. They are attacking mostly new growth and have taken out a lot of the apical meristems. What should I do??
Pauline — Art imitating life is so last century. It’s all about life imitating art now.
It really looks like snail and slug damage. We use Sluggo with good results and without having to worry about killing pets and wildlife like most of the other Snail and Slug killers on the market. Of course you do have to reapply on schedule or they munch it again. Check the pot for hiding gastropods, they will often get down at the base and hide out during the day. You can trim out the worse damage and fertilize and it should resprout with new growth fairly quickly.
As if we didn’t have enough critters (deer, gophers) to worry about, guess what we saw for the first time in our yard today? A wild turkey, gobbling around in all the up-turned soil at the top, no less. The dog raced it out of the yard, thank goodness, but now who do we blame for uprooted vegetables etc?
At least they are tasty… smart, friendly (at least the ones I hatched and raised as a bird crazy youth… they like M & M’s by the way…) but they are very tasty…
You may need to hoop the beds and cage them in?
Maybe a cool kinetic sculpture? maybe not, after all the jays might get scared too…
Thanks for this month’s newsletter. I am happy to see you have some Myrtillocactus blue crests! I have a little baby one about 4” tall with only one little fan…yours look wonderful.
I am sending some pictures – hope you don’t mind. The first one I bought at H*** D****. It was/is gorgeous!! It is labeled as Trichocereus grandiflorous Hybrid and your website (I do believe) calls it an Echinopsis terscheckii. Are they one and the same?
The second pic is my poor little beat up Myrtillocactus.
And the third picture is of three plants I bought at a local cactus and succulent club sale… from left to right they are… Euphorbia Knutii, the poisonous Tylecodon and on the right is the Euphorbia Aeruginosa. Sound right to you?
I also bought a Rebutia torquata with lovely orange flowers – can’t find it in any books, though.
Thanks for your time!
The first one we call Echinocereus grandiflora hybrid. The Trichocereus name was changed to Echinopsis years ago, but many nurseries have kept the old name. These are intergenic hybrids, including both Echinopsis and Echinocereus parentage, so we picked the Echinocereus name, while others have picked the Echinopsis or Trichocereus name. It’s definitely not going to turn into a giant tree cactus like the Echinopsis terscheckii.
The small Myrtillocactus Crest looks like it needs to get repotted into a bigger pot and fresh cactus soil. It has very good shape, but needs more root space and nutrients.
Your Euphorbia knuthii is a really nice young specimen. They will grow a beautiful big caudex over time. The Tylecodon could be T. paniculatus, although it’s hard to tell for sure from the photo. Finally, the ID on the Euphorbia is correct. If you pot it up it will sprawl everywhere and with those spiny stems they are quite the challenge to repot.
Rebutia torquata is more properly called Rebutia pygmaea. This one can handle less sun than most cactus, and would prefer some afternoon shade.
Hap, I don’t know if you got my updated photos on my project but here are some photos of the Purple Temple Bamboo. The leaves are turning yellow and I am not to sure if I have a problem.
I am watering once a week for 20 minutes on a drip system but I don’t think I am over watering. Thanks Dan
It looks like a bit of transplant shock and perhaps wind burn. What is the gallons per hour of you drip hose? If it is one of the low volume hoses, you may need to run the water longer to get enough water to the plants. During the settling in phase your bamboo should each be getting about five gallons of water per week and more during hot windy periods. After a couple of months of growing roots and getting settled, you can cut back a bit, but keep up the regular water the first year or two and get them fully established before weaning them off to once or twice a month water. If they don’t perk up in a few weeks you can give them liquid kelp and that should help them grow out of their funk.
Take care, Hap
the drip hose is .9 gallons per hour and holes every 12″ on the drip hose. Sounds like I was not giving the bamboo enough water so I will water 5 days a week for an hour each time…… Thanks again for everything, Dan
Hello Cactus Jungle! A few months ago, I bought a couple of bamboo plants from Cactus Jungle and planted them in a planter box on my porch in San Francisco. One of them is doing really well, but the other one has yellow leaves and a few of its shoots have died. Unlike the healthy plant, the sickly bamboo hasn’t sent up any new shoots at all. I’m wondering if you can recommend how to cure whatever ails it. It’s a wind-tolerant variety, I think from Chile–I’m sorry I don’t remember the name. I’ve included some photos in case they help.
I water the plants about once every two weeks. The planter box has two inches of pebbles at the bottom to help with drainage. The plants get early morning and late afternoon sun. And lots of wind… Please let me know if you have any advice. Thanks for your help! Kenneth
Kenneth, The plant, Chusquea culeou, does look a little thin in the photos. With a little care you should be able to get it to green up again.
The basic problem is that you are not watering them enough. In general we recommend watering once per week – drenching the soil completely. They are drought tolerant, so it’s losing leaves as a response to underwatering. In addition, you’ve got a wood planter box which will tend to dry out very quickly, and high winds which will tend to dry out the plants quickly. So water once per week – and with your conditions there I wouldn’t miss a watering.
You can also feed the bamboo now. If you got Bioturf fertilizer from us, use that. Peter
I’ve come across your blog and a few others while researching what I have done wrong with my aloe plants. It is very nice of you to answer all those questions. I was hoping you could help me please. Also, please bear with me, this e-mail might have a lot of wording, I’m told I’m long winded…
I have quite a few aloe plants that we’re originally my grandmother’s. Once a year or so my grandfather would give them to me to separate the baby aloes and re-pot them. They always did very well. Now I have them, and the year before last I had no problems with them. I wintered them in front of a patio door that faces east and didn’t water them but once over that time. After the last threat of frost I would put them on our deck which is under a large maple and they would get dappled light and indirect rainwater all summer long until the fall.
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